As part of our series on rod building basics, MARK FISHER explains how to build a rod handle.
LAST issue I talked about the preparation required prior to building your own fishing rod. We discussed the advantages of seeking expert help from your local tackle shop and the importance of a quiet, well lit work area, away from the continual disturbances found in most households. This time I’ll talk about setting up the handle and reel seat of your first rod.
Backbone
I suggest beginners start with a light spinning rod. After deciding on a blank and obtaining the components, the next step for building any fishing rod is locating the “spine”. If you’re unsure how to locate the spine, ask for assistance from your local tackle shop or from a knowledgeable rod builder. The spine for a spinning rod should be situated on top of the blank as you’re looking towards the tip. We will call this the 0 axis – and the opposite side of this – the bottom or 180 degree axis. This can be determined by placing the butt section of the blank on the ground and supporting the mid section of the blank with one hand while your other hand puts a working curve into the tip area of the blank. Don’t get too aggressive! Just make a decent curve to get the blank working.
Now, keeping that curve in the blank, gently roll it – it doesn’t matter which direction. You should find a point where you can feel a distinct movement in the blank where it prefers to be under load and another area where the blank fights to return to the position of least stress. It can be described as “clicking” into position. Some blanks give a strong “click” while on others the backbone may be a little harder to find. Persevere for a little while and it should become very evident. On a spin rod I mark the 0 and 180 degree axis with a Chinagraph pencil.
Putting it together
After locating the spine I like to “dry fit” my components. I lay every component out in the actual order they will be fitted to the blank. This ensures the rod goes together in the right order. I like to fit the butt cap first. In most cases the cap will be rubber or cork and should be slightly larger than the butt of the blank. I run a few turns of masking tape around the blank so the butt cap fits nice and snugly. Apply 24 hour Araldite and twist the butt cap into position.
The rear grip is next. For an EVA grip it should have a slightly smaller inner diameter than the butt of the blank. I like my grips to stop about half way down the blank.
To get them into position you have to apply bands of Araldite around the blank all the way down to where the final position will be. I soak the inside of the grip with some metho and then slide it to where the first bands of Araldite are. I then use an “O” grip between my thumb and forefinger at the top of the grip. This is important because it allows the EVA grip to balloon slightly at the bottom end allowing the Araldite to create a lubricant, enabling you to force the grip into position. Importantly, don’t stop once you start pushing it into position. You’ll find most of the Araldite goes straight into the inside of the grip and only requires a small clean up with a metho soaked rag.
Reel seat
The reel seat is the next component fitted. The reel seat inner diameter should be slightly larger than the blank. Slide the seat into position and then move it towards the tip. Apply bands of masking tape to the blank to make shim spacing. Keep sliding the reel seat back into position until that first band takes up with the seat. It should be a firm fit but not excessively tight. Next, build another shim slightly further along towards the tip but no longer than the reel seat. I apply 24 hour Araldite to the shims and completely cover them and the gaps in between. Slide your reel seat into place. There should be little mess. Make sure you align the hoods of the seat with the 180 axis. This is extremely important!
Then fit the front grip in exactly the same way as the bottom or rear grip. At this point I make sure I wipe the whole area clean of any glue using the metho soaked rag. Stand the rod up and walk away. Check every hour for any glue leakage. Also check to see everything is aligned. Because you are using 24 hour Araldite, small adjustments can be made for some time before the glue sets.
This is the first step to building your first rod and can be the messiest. It’s also the most important step in the whole rod building process. If the handle isn’t right, the whole rod won’t be right.
