A MASSIVE jewfish emerged from the depths and the two anglers stared in disbelief. The fight had gone on for many minutes with some long runs and periods of stubborn resistance. Now the prize seemed close enough to land. The net was small and shallow but as the fish surfaced the assistant made a frantic lunge. The net grazed the fish, and startled, the jew dived away. Hard words and more rod work followed. Then a very tired mulloway reappeared and lay exhausted on the surface. The assistant tried to scoop the fish from behind and managed to lift it part way onto the jetty. As he lifted the jew gave a last kick and dropped out of the net. The line snapped and the fish slowly rolled away, lost forever.
Every fisherman has a story like this. The escape of a big fish hurts for a long, long time. Safely landing fish, particularly large powerful ones, is not easy We all need to develop proficiency to avoid disasters.
Over the years, anglers have developed a range of highly effective methods to land fish. This article describes the tools and explains the procedures that form these techniques.
TOOLS
In nearly all cases the risk of losing a fish increases dramatically if you try to lift it. Many anglers rely on a range of tools to assist them rather than chance the line breaking.
LANDING NETS
Landing nets come in a huge range of models and styles. They vary from hand-sized scoops for live baits to deep, large-mouthed nets for big fish like barramundi and jewfish.
Handle length can range from several metres for cliff nets to a small grip. Some handles fold down or slide into the net for ease of carriage. Most net frames are made from aluminium. Some nets are hand-crafted from timber and are works of art.
Mesh type ranges from solid rubber or silicone to knotted netting. Perforated cloth and knotless types do less damage to a fish’s slime coat and are recommended if fish are to be released.
From a fish landing perspective, nets can be classified into two broad categories: fast and slow. Fast nets are light and move through the water with little resistance. They are ideal for tournament anglers who need to process the catch and quickly move on. Fast nets allow the operator to adjust to a fish easily. They are ideal for the solo angler who must perform the landing one handed.
Fast nets can be a pain if the lure tangles in the light mesh. Anglers can avoid this by holding the trace as they lift and raise the fish clear of the net as soon as it is safely in the boat.
Slow nets have solid, heavy frames and weighty mesh. Their construction and choice of mesh or rubber/silicone makes them less manoeuvrable. They are unwieldy and many require two hands. They are a good choice for large fish that are played out and sitting quietly at the boat side. Heavy nets are also ideal when an assistant does the netting.
GAFFS
A gaff is a hook on a pole or handle. They are used to pin a fish and lift them into the boat. In past times gaffs were used for large flatties, barra and jewfish but today a net is preferred.
Gaffs feature a sharp point which is nearly always barbless. The distance between the tip and the shaft – the gape, is calculated so the gaff will hold enough flesh, so the fish won’t tear off the hook. This can range from 10cm up to massive hooks for large sharks and marlin. Gaffs are permanently attached to handles like nets although the “flying gaff” designed for big fish is placed into the fish and then disconnects from the pole. A length of heavy rope holds the gaff head in place and is secured to a bollard or cleat on the boat.
Rock fishing gaffs feature a hook on a long multi jointed pole which is broken down for carriage. The cliff variant has three inward facing hooks that swing off a small ring. The gaff is lowered down the line and over the fish’s head. The rope is then tugged firmly until the gaff tips bite into the fish. The catch is then hauled up the cliff.
Gaffs that feature a double hook are uncommon today. These were used by some anglers to land snapper, jew and other medium weight fish. Most were home-made and used a double hook in size 4/0 – 6/0. The barbs were filed off.
Gaffs are still the first choice for anglers targeting toothy fish like wahoo and mackerel as these species will bite through a net.
TAIL ROPE
Tail ropes are used on big fish. A sliding noose is slipped over the tail and tightened. The rope is lashed to a bollard to hold a struggling fish.
LIP GRIPS
Lip grips are pincers that lock on the fish’s lower jaw. Popular in recent times, these tools have made fish handling safer and easier. Most are made from marine grade aluminium or stainless steel, but some are moulded from plastic. Some feature a set of scales. Lip grips keep hands away from teeth, spines and cutting plates. They allow the angler to control a fish as a lure or hook is removed.
“SNOOTER”
A “snooter” is a hollow pole with a wire rope or cable running through. The wire forms a noose which is placed over a marlin’s spear and tightened. It permits an angler to hold a fish in the water by its bill while a lure is removed.
GLOVES
Anglers use a range of gloves to protect themselves from fish spines, teeth and the chance of a hook point finding flesh. Gloves offer a better grip and can aid in fish cleaning. Leather welding gauntlets are ideal for billfish and toothy fish likely to cause damage.
Once landed the fish must be processed. If it is to be released a quick turnaround is required while if it is to be eaten it should be dispatched quickly and stored in a cool place. Tools designed to assist in these processes are listed below.
FISH DE-HOOKER
This is a rod or “bar” with a narrow hook with parallel sides in the end used to unhook fish. The hook is placed over the line and drawn up until the hook hits the tool. Little de hooking bars are great at flicking live bait off jigs and bigger ones are sometimes used to release fish without having to boat them.
FISH DE GORGER
The plastic de gorger is a slim tool designed to track down the line into a fish’s mouth. When it hits the hook, a push dislodges the barb, and the hook is removed. In many cases where an unwanted fish has been hooked deep, this tool will do more harm than good. In those cases, snip the line at the fish’s mouth and release it. Many fish throw the hook soon after release.
DEHOOKING PLIERS
These are long nosed pliers designed to reach into a fish’s mouth to grab and remove a hook or lure.
PRIEST (AKA “DONGER”)
This is a club made or heavy wood or aluminium used to stun and kill a fish. We see them used commonly to kill mackerel and wahoo before they are brought into the boat. The angler gaffs the fish then uses a priest to deliver a firm blow to the head.
IKI JIME SPIKE
This is a sharp spike used to punch into the brain of a fish to kill it. These can be made from an old screwdriver or bought commercially. The operator needs to know where to place the spike in each species and a phone app is available to help with this.
RESTRAINT ROPE
This is a length of strong cord with a barbless hook attached to one end. An 8/0 in a straight pattern is ideal. It is used to hold species like dolphinfish until they stop thrashing. The hook is placed into the mouth, the fish is bent into a U, and the tail wrist is lashed. This works on mackerel, kingfish, cobia and wahoo too.
SPINE CABLE
This is a length of fine wire cable used to run inside a fish’s spine to stop death throes and nerve activity. Once the cable has been inserted the fish relaxes. It is used on larger premium-eating fish like tuna.
COMMON METHODS
Fish can be landed at any time during the fight. Experienced barra anglers, knowing the fish will jump, can time a net shot to catch it as it leaps. Live baits like slimy mackerel are best landed as soon as possible so they remain frisky and full of energy. However, most anglers are best served by allowing the fish to expend its energy.
PICKING A FISH UP
Some anglers are adept at picking a fish up straight from the water. This is a risky strategy for obvious reasons. Some fish can be lifted using a ‘comfort lift’ where the hand is placed under the fish’s side or belly which then causes it to remain still as it is lifted. This is not recommended for spikey fish or those with cutting plates.
Toothless fish like Australian bass can be lifted using a jaw grip. The angler places a thumb into the fish’s mouth and clamps down on its lower jaw. This immobilises the fish, and the angler achieves good control. Do not attempt this with fish with teeth or powerful crushing jaws or where treble hooks could pin the angler.
WASHING A FISH OUT
This technique is used when the bank is at water level and swell floods over the lip. The angler uses water movement along with rod pressure to steer the fish in and hold it as the water recedes. Rock fishermen use this technique on a range of species including luderick, bream, salmon, tailor, rock blackfish and groper. Beach anglers rely on this method too. The key is to time the swing to coincide with a swell. The fish needs to be played out or it will scoot back with the wave.
A version of this is used along river and lake banks and on sand bars where the angle of the bank permits the fish to slide out.
NETTING A FISH
There are some simple guidelines to follow when netting a fish. Use a net that will accommodate the fish. Shallow small-mouthed nets have a way of giving a big fish the advantage.
It is much better to play the fish out before attempting a net shot. Fish are far less likely to react violently to netting if they are tired. Once the fish is ‘beaten’ and alongside place the net so the lip is underwater. Keep the top above the water and hold the net still. The angler brings the fish to the net using smooth rod work. As the head goes into the net the assistant moves the net forward so the fish is completely inside. In the same action the net is lifted into the boat. The angler should take the pressure off as soon as the lift starts but remain prepared to resume the fight.
At no stage should the net operator lunge or swipe at the fish. Even a tired fish will flinch or kick. Worse, this “swiping” action may cause the fish to renew the fight, snag the lure if it is outside the fish’s mouth or even create sufficient pressure to break the line. Always take a fish head-first so if it panics it will swim forward into the net. Keep calm, communicate, and make the net shot smooth and decisive.
GAFF WORK
Just like netting, gaffing a fish is straight forward. Once the fish is boat side and played out the gaff is placed over the fish, hook tip down. The target area is just behind the head, so the fish is dragged into the boat head-first. The gaff is firmly pulled in so the hook bites into the fish. In the same motion the fish is lifted in board. Some prefer to have the gaff point face up which does not take advantage of gravity but is otherwise effective.
For dangerous fish like wahoo and mackerel the fish should be tapped on the head as soon as possible. This kills the fish and reduces the risk of it thrashing and doing damage with its razorsharp teeth.
For dolphin fish, take the gaff shot and lift. There will be a momentary pause in the fish’s struggles. You need to work fast as the “dollie” does just as much frantic fighting in the boat as it did in the water! Get the fish’s head into a corner and bend its body into a U. Place a restraint rope hook into the dollies mouth and lashing the other end around its tail wrist. The fish is now rendered immobile and powerless. It is held this way until spiked or it ceases to struggle.
To reduce risk from teeth further use gloves to protect the hands and lower arms.
Some anglers lip gaff fish. Big GTs are a good example. This requires skill and does minor damage to the fish. Lifting big fish by their head probably does further damage to their throat and gill area. Many prefer to use gloves and grab the tail wrist.
FINAL THOUGHTS
The key to safe landings is to have the right tools on hand and ready to go. If you fish by yourself there is no time to screw the net handle in as you fight that trophy!
Look to see how well the fish is hooked. In many cases the lure or hook will be solidly embedded so there is no reason to rush. Play the fish out and then calmly land it with a net or by gripping the tail wrist.
When using lures, make sure you keep well away from trebles until the lure is removed. I have seen many cases of anglers hooking themselves and it’s no fun dealing with a treble in your hand or arm with a thrashing fish on the other end!
Wait for the best opportunity for a net or gaff shot. This may be after several circles near the boat or after a second or third run. It is far better to let the fish go round again than try a frantic swipe.
Finally, good communication between the angler and the assistant is vital.
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