MICRO-JIGGING has really taken off. There seems to be no end to the opportunities that this style of fishing offers. For instance, this method has revolutionised the way I – and many other anglers – fish for snapper. I’ve had plenty of hot sessions dropping jigs on schools of big angry reds to the point now that I’m happy to leave the bait behind!
While some of these rods might look like kids’ toys, they are far from this. In fact, quality micro-jig rods can really pack a punch. They’re also much lighter to hold and use than more conventional jigging tackle, which makes them more comfortable to use for long periods. A side benefit of this is that you can save your energy for when you’re hooked up …
Micro-jig rods are available in a range of line class ratings – from as light as PE 0.4 (4lb) to PE 4 (40lb) – which means you can choose a model to suit your style of fishing plus get the most out of your preferred target species.
I’ve been hanging out to try micro-jigging out on a wider range of pelagic species and over the past few months I’ve really had my chance. While I know that micro-jigging has been popular in the northern waters in recent years, I’m now finding that it’s really beginning to take off in more southern locations. While there may not be the diversity of pelagic fish down south as there is up north, there are species that provide first class sport using micro-jigging techniques. These fish are seasonally abundant and being pelagics their schooling behaviour means that when you find them, the action can be really hot! I’ve had plenty of success with micro-jigging for yellowtail kingfish and southern bluefin tuna this past season. And in doing so I’ve been continually pushing my gear to the limits. What I’ve been finding is that you can land quite large fish on the micro outfits. It’s got to the stage that my standard 24kg jig rods find themselves left alone in the rack while I persevere with the micro-jigging outfits.
Over the past few months I’ve been able to land kingfish to 9kg and SBT to 18kg on my Storm Gomoku Kodachi PE 2-4 rated outfit. Friends have also had a ball jigging up 15kg samson fish on the southern reefs. These are serious fish to land on light micro-jigging gear, but if you follow a few simple rules and your tackle is rigged correctly there is no end to the things you can do with this type of tackle. With tuna season in full swing and plenty of kingfish on the reefs around the southern coastline, now is the time to get out and give micro-jigging a go!
Rigging
While rigging up can be as simple as attaching a leader to your braid, there are plenty of considerations you need to make to maximise the success of your technique and the efficiency of your gear. Micro-jigging rods usually come fitted with micro guides which have fine diameters, so they don’t suit bulky knots. The best knot to use by far is the FG as it’s very strong and has a very slim profile. With this knot, the mono leader isn’t actually knotted – the braid essentially pulls down tight on the mono. The harder you pull on it, the harder it pulls down. The result is a slim and neat connection that won’t inhibit casting and is close to 100 per cent knot strength. You can use this knot for all styles of fishing so my advice is to learn it. Once you do, you’ll never go back to other braid/leader knots.
For kingfish and tuna I usually use 60lb leader as neither species has sharp teeth. Usually the fish are hooked on the lip so it’s actually the braided loop on the hook that takes most of the punishment. If you’re planning to target more toothy critters, you can upsize your leader with a short “bite” leader of heavier line or modify your assist hook accordingly.
Whether you use fluoro or mono is a matter of personal preference. I like to use mono for its extra stretch and shock absorption, but if I’m fishing over heavy structure I might go for fluoro for its abrasion resistance. There are pros and cons for both: monofilament has more stretch, less abrasion resistance and is generally cheaper, while fluoro has more abrasion resistance, less stretch and is more expensive.
I use leaders of 2-4m in length. These longer leaders are ideal when fishing in shallow water over reef to limit the chance of your braid rubbing a rock and breaking. The other advantage of a long leader is that when you’re landing the fish you can get the leader comfortably and safely onto the reel. I use a small but strong swivel connected to the split ring on the top of the jig when I’m using spin gear. This reduces line twist and also provides a smooth connection point for my main leader, which I usually connect to the swivel with a four wrap Uni Knot. Never tie your line directly to a split ring, they have sharp points on them and can let you down. Make sure you use the right sized swivel – there’s no need to oversize as this will affect the action of your jig.
Jig selection
There are a range of micro jigs on the market these days. Looking at the wall of your local tackle shop can be daunting with all of the different shapes, colours, sizes and models. When micro-jigging you really don’t need jigs heavier than 100-150g; in fact for most of the fishing I do in waters between 20-50m depth I generally only use 60-80g jigs. Jigs themselves generally fall into a couple of different categories. Narrow, slim profile or “knife” style jigs are ideal when you need your jig to sink quickly, such as when you’re marking moving fish down deep. The knife jigs are also ideal when fishing heavy current as they offer minimal resistance and allow you to pinpoint schools of fish. On the other hand, these jigs require more work with the rod and reel to impart action. As a result they work well when fished with a quick retrieve. The other style of jig is the leaf shaped “flutter” or “slow fall” models which will sink more slowly than your standard knife jig. These jigs are great if you want more hang time in the water column. Slow fall jigs are ideal when targeting midwater schools or fish closer to the surface. By altering the pitch of your retrieve you can impart a varied action to this style of jig. They don’t need to be fished as quickly as the standard knife jigs to get a response.
Assist hooks
Some jig brands come pre-rigged with assist hooks, but many don’t. When selecting terminals for your jigs ensure you choose good quality split rings and the right sized assist hooks for the species you’re targeting. Quality is key when selecting jig terminals. There are many ways to rig assist hooks. A single hook near the head of the jig is the traditional approach and is very effective, however, it’s not uncommon for anglers to use a single or double set of hooks on the bottom tow point as well. This is a set-up I rarely use when fishing over heavy structure as there’s a strong chance of the jig snagging up. If using a top and bottom set of assist hooks, make sure they can’t overlap and tangle. Spicing up your assist hook is also popular. This involves the addition of a small rubber squid or tinsel to the assist hook. I’ve had great success on the snapper with these additions, however, you must check to see if the addition affects the action of the jig. Sometimes when the profile of the jig becomes bulkier it can affect the sink rate and action, so test your retrofitting out at the side of the boat before you drop it down.
Fighting the fish
When using micro-jigging tackle on big fish the obvious limitation is that there’s a point at which your tackles reaches its limit and you can’t lock up or apply any more pressure. That said, in most cases you rarely need to push your gear to its full limit. I’ve found on kingfish that consistent drag pressure of 3-4kg is more than enough to fight a big fish. Although the fight time is extended, there’s less chance of the fish diving into the bottom, leader knots popping or hooks being pulled due to over exertion. I have tried micro-jigging tackle against standard 24kg jigging tackle side by side many times over the past few months and have been able to land just as many fish.
Due to the limitation of not being able to go full lock and trying to muscle out fish, I take the alternative and use my vessel to my advantage. If I’m fishing over heavy structure, particularly for kingfish, I’ll keep the motor running and get chasing soon after hookup in order to try and lead the fish. When you lead or follow a fish it’s less likely to dive down and get hooked in the bottom. Often you’re able to steer them away from structure as well. When you fight a fish straight up and down, it often has a tendency to want to dive opposingly – straight into the bottom. By keeping moving you give yourself a better chance of landing a large fish on light tackle.
When fishing for tuna getting bricked isn’t as much of a problem as the fish generally don’t fight dirty. Usually the SBTs hang up higher in the water column and take more big runs. Often in this situation it becomes a question of line capacity on the first run! Keeping in touch with the fish – be it a tuna or a king – is important. You don’t want excessive amounts of line off the reel. One of the great benefits of fishing for kingfish and tuna in southern Australia is that they’re often found in reasonably shallow water, often less than 50m. A 3000 sized reel with a smooth drag and enough line capacity to hold around 200m of 40lb braid is enough to land a large fish.
With the annual migration of school sized southern bluefin tuna along the southern coastline in full swing, and good numbers of kingfish around in the inshore waters of NSW, Victoria and SA, there are plenty of opportunities to get out and try micro-jigging for southern pelagics. Once you’ve tried it, I’m sure you’ll be hooked!
