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REPORT: Paradise Revisited

IT’S a bloody long flight from the UK to Australia and although I’ve done it a fair few times now it doesn’t get any easier, or shorter. Consequently, on the occasions I return to your sparkling shores I’m keen to make the most of my time here and that means somewhere has to be pretty special for me to plan a return trip at the expense of exploring somewhere new.

When it comes to superlatives I’m afraid “pretty special” doesn’t come even close to describing the true wonders of Lord Howe Island – a place that rightly justifies its title of The Last Paradise.

Most people in Australia, never mind the UK, couldn’t tell you where Lord Howe Island is and very few have ever been to this little piece of magical rock situated some 400 miles out in the Tasman Sea and containing the world’s most southerly coral reef.
LHI is just 11.5 kms long and 2kms wide and surrounds a pristine lagoon in crescent shape with Mounts Lidgbird and Gower at one end, the Admiralty Islands at the other and the remarkable Balls Pyramid some 13 nautical miles to the south. It was declared a World Heritage site in 1982 and is home to over 130 species of birds and 500 species of fish. Both the population of tourists and residents is strictly controlled and numbers of vehicles on the island are limited to protect this unique and stunningly beautiful environment. My wife Natalie and I are lucky to have now been there twice and we probably regard Lord Howe as our favourite place on the planet.

You can find out more at http://www.lordhoweisland.info/ or read about my first fishing adventures on the island in 2011 here at http://www.fishingworldmag.com.au/news/the-last-paradise-lord-howe-island

We recently returned from five magical days in paradise where we stayed at the wonderful Pinetrees Lodge which has its own boatshed right on the lagoon shore. I had some great fishing with my friends Gary and Viv Crombie and snorkelled the reef from several locations in the clearest water we’ve ever seen.

Be warned, Lord Howe is not cheap but there are deals on offer through both Pinetrees and Qantas, particularly after May 1st, which give discounted airfares and five nights for four accommodation packages and special themed weeks. Just check out the Pinetrees website at http://www.pinetrees.com.au/rates-and-packages for further details.

With very few cars available for visitors bikes are the way to go on Lord Howe. With the high cost of getting provisions to the island self catering is not necessarily the cheapest option and the excellent Pinetrees offers the best value full board accommodation in a perfect setting.

I fished two sessions with “Crom” – the first with a fly rod on the shallow waters of the lagoon chasing silver drummer and trevally. Chumming the water with bread to draw the fish to the surface and away from the razor sharp corals may not appeal to the dry fly purists but it is hellish effective especially if followed up with a carefully presented bread fly on a lightish tippet. Crom specialises in light line sports fishing and there’s no one better to go out with on the island.

Hookup!

Although the big drummer eluded us on this occasion we had great fun with some of the smaller specimens and landed a lovely silver trevally after a dramatic fight which saw me twice have to stop searing runs for the rocks which took the line down to the backing.

(View video of fishing Lord Howe Island’s lagoon HERE.)

A smallish but perfectly formed silver drummer caught on a bread fly.

Our second session was on day three of our holiday when the wind had died down to whisper rendering conditions perfect for my first ever trip to Ball’s Pyramid. Although the kingfish for which this legendary spot is famous were not in evidence that day we did find a shoal of large trevally holed up at the base of the rock stack in a sheltered corner. I quickly hooked two fish in succession on large soft plastics at mid water including a corker of around seven kilos, easily my biggest ever of the species. We began to berley up and soon the fish were swarming behind the boat. By fishing 50 lb leaders and a large cooked prawn on weightless tackle it was possible to avoid the drummer that had piled into the berley trail and specifically target the trevally.

Approaching the incredible Ball’s Pyramid in ideal conditions.

Frustratingly we lost far too many fish that either made to the rocks below us or popped the leader knot as we tried to halt their screaming runs – perhaps I should have swapped my Improvedtj Albright for a Bimini Twist and Bristol knot but you know what it’s like when fish frenzy takes hold. Until now I had always contended that pound for pound yellow tailed kingfish were the hardest fighting fish in the sea. Now I’m not so sure!

One of the big trevs that didn’t get away.

It was with some sadness that we bade farewell to Lord Howe and its fishes but we’ll be back for sure. In fact both Natalie and I made a quiet promise to ourselves that we will do our best to ensure that we never visit Oz without spending some time on Lord Howe. I’ve fished a fair few spots around the globe and I can’t honestly think of many better places to go to catch great fish in an absolutely pristine environment. And you lucky buggers have got it on your doorstep …. what are you waiting for?!

Lord Howe details
Info: www.lordhoweisland.info or www.visitnsw.com
Phone: 1800 240 937 or international 61 2 6563 2114
Travel
Oxley Travel: www.oxleytravel.com.au
Phone 1800 671 546
Accommodation
Pinetrees: www.pinetrees.com.au
Phone: (02) 9262 6585
Fishing
Oblivienne Sportsfishing with Gary Crombie:
www.fishinglordhoweisland.com.au
Phone: (02) 6563 2155 or (02) 6563 2185
Blue Billie:
bluebilliefishingcharters@gmail.com
Phone: (02) 6563 2305
Activities
Islander Cruises: Phone (02) 6563 2298

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